How to build a throwing star out of computer parts

How to make a Shiriken out of computer parts

In this modern world, it does not take much to be a tech-pirate. All you need is a CD-burner and piles of blank CDs. It takes much more to become a tech ninja. Many of the martial-arts weapons began life as ordinary farm implements turned into tools of war. Nunchuku, for instance, were originally used to thresh wheat. Likewise, to be a ninja in this day and time does not simply mean dressing up in kewl-azz funky fly black threads and going "Kiiaaayahhh!". To be a proper ninja, you should not buy weapons from a catalog, but rather use the common tools of the computer professional as weapons. You should be able to form lethal weapons out of things laying around in most computer repair shops.

Materials: Copper wire, slot protecotrs, CAT3 network cable

First, we mark the slot protectors with lines showing where we desire to cut. It helps to make all the cutout blades the same size. You can make a template out of cardboard, or just "eyeball" it, as I did with this one. I am using Dell slot protectors, as they use some higher-quality (i.e. tougher) materials than some of the more generic manufacturers.

Next, cut the slot protectors into the desired shape. Tin snips or aviation shears may be used, or a chisel, or a hacksaw. I used a vise. I would clamp the protector in the vise, bend along the cut line, and then flex the protector back and forth until the metal snapped. I then used a machine file to remove any burrs from the metal. I also hammered out the ridges in these slot protectors.

Save the scraps of metal that result from making the blades. They tend to be sharp and pointy, and thus useful for other ninja weapons.

At this point, the blades can be used a small weapon, most easily as a double-blade throwing knife. However, since the metal is very light, there will not be much momentum behind the blade, even if thrown hard, and it will bounce off most surfaces. If you are lucky, you can get it to stick in cardboard if thrown correctly. Note that the blades can be used as hand spikes (see picture).

If you plan to use them as such, only point one end (otherwise, you will spear your hand when you punch something). Due to the sharp edges found on many cases, it is also advised to file the edges (the edges that you hold in betwixst your knuckles, not the "business" edges") to prevent slicing the webbing of your knuckles.

Next, I made a pattern in Paint Shop Pro 7 for laying out the blades. I suppose I could have simply calculated the angles, but it was more fun to make a pretty picture in PSP7. Obviously, a hexagon for a 6-point star, a square for a 4-point star, and so on. Vectors are such a useful tool. I printed it out on my Lexmark Z12, then took the sheet and the blades to the shop.

In the shop, I carefully laid the blades on the radial lines, and arranged them so that the center of each blade was at the center of the hexagon. After deciding where I wanted the two holes for the locking pin (with one hole, the blades will slip out of alignment) I used a 16oz. Sears Manual Calibration Device with Claw attachment in conjunction with a large roofing nail to pit the surface. I then used a drill with a small bit to bore the holes. Since the steel used in most cases is mild steel, and since it is very thin, it can be cut easily, even with a bit designed for wood.

If you can clamp the blades, drill the whole all the way through the 3 blades at once. With me, the blades kept slipping, so I would drill the holes in a piece, then realign the drilled piece on top of the others, pit the next blade through the holes, and repeat.

For a locking pin, I used about five inches of solid copper wire, gauge 20. I bent it into a "U" shape, then threaded each blade onto the wire. I then cut off the excess wire with lineman's pliars.

Once again, I employed the 16oz. Sears Manual Calibration Device with Claw attachment. The curve of the "U" wire is bent flat, and the prongs are bent in opposite directions, in much the same way as a brad for paper.

The star is technically ready, but it is still flawed in regards to weight. It is too light to have much heft or to stick in most surfaces. If you make the star out of a brakeplate, you don't encounter this issue, but since we didn't, we do. I took about four feet of CAT3 cable we had on hand (I could use CAT5, but we use it on networking jobs), removed the casing, and separated it into the component wires. I have wrapped about four feet of Orange around the star. This adds a relatively large amount of weight to the star. I hooked it to the copper wire at the start, and braided it back along itself at the end. Wind it tightly, for this also adds structural stability to the star.

Again, this time with some Green. Orange vaguely contrasts with Green, although Blue would be better, but I had misplaced the Blue and I was too lazy to tear up another four feet of CAT3.

The throwing star is finished. With the orange and green, it almost looks like a flower. As it has been said, "Even the smallest flower can strike a deadly blow..."

An interesting variation you can do at this point is to securely tie the star to the end of a long strand of CAT3 wire. Make a finger loop in the other end. This weapon is used by swinging the cord in a circle, then stepping towards the target and snapping the wrist, thus achieivng far greater speeds with the star than is usually possible by throwing. This has the advantage of being useful in short-range combat, although it increases the chance of damaging yourself.

What use is a throwing star if it is not thrown? It flies fairly accurate. Here it is embedded in a cardboard box target.

Another box shot.

It goes nicely through sheetrock (drywall) as well. Homeowner's insurance will not be your friend if you test your new toy out too much in the house. It would probably not feel good to get hit with one of these. Since it is made out of mild steel, the points will blunt easily if it is thrown into metal. Use with caution. Do not place throwing star in same pocket as car keys.

The computer throwing star is accurate (if thrown well) to ranges up to around 20 ft. It can be thrown both sidearm and overhand. For maximum throwing force, snap with the arm, then the wrist, then the fingers. This way, the star has maximum speed in a straight line. You can throw it like a small frisbee as well.

It bears noting that this a weapon with the potential to cause injuries or death. Use with caution. I have had mine sink deep into cardboard, thin sheets of wood, drywall, 1/16" thick plastic, etc.

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Materials: Copper wire, slot protecotrs, CAT3 network cable First, we mark the slot protectors with lines showing where we desire to cut. It helps to make all the cutout blades the same size. You can make a template out of cardboard, or just "eyeball" it, as I did with this one. I am using Dell slot protectors, as they use some higher-quality (i.e. tougher) materials than some of the more generic manufacturers.
Next, cut the slot protectors into the desired shape. Tin snips or aviation shears may be used, or a chisel, or a hacksaw. I used a vise. I would clamp the protector in the vise, bend along the cut line, and then flex the protector back and forth until the metal snapped. I then used a machine file to remove any burrs from the metal. I also hammered out the ridges in these slot protectors. Save the scraps of metal that result from making the blades. They tend to be sharp and pointy, and thus useful for other ninja weapons.
At this point, the blades can be used a small weapon, most easily as a double-blade throwing knife. However, since the metal is very light, there will not be much momentum behind the blade, even if thrown hard, and it will bounce off most surfaces. If you are lucky, you can get it to stick in cardboard if thrown correctly. Note that the blades can be used as hand spikes (see picture). If you plan to use them as such, only point one end (otherwise, you will spear your hand when you punch something). Due to the sharp edges found on many cases, it is also advised to file the edges (the edges that you hold in betwixst your knuckles, not the "business" edges") to prevent slicing the webbing of your knuckles.
Next, I made a pattern in Paint Shop Pro 7 for laying out the blades. I suppose I could have simply calculated the angles, but it was more fun to make a pretty picture in PSP7. Obviously, a hexagon for a 6-point star, a square for a 4-point star, and so on. Vectors are such a useful tool. I printed it out on my Lexmark Z12, then took the sheet and the blades to the shop.
In the shop, I carefully laid the blades on the radial lines, and arranged them so that the center of each blade was at the center of the hexagon. After deciding where I wanted the two holes for the locking pin (with one hole, the blades will slip out of alignment) I used a 16oz. Sears Manual Calibration Device with Claw attachment in conjunction with a large roofing nail to pit the surface. I then used a drill with a small bit to bore the holes. Since the steel used in most cases is mild steel, and since it is very thin, it can be cut easily, even with a bit designed for wood. If you can clamp the blades, drill the whole all the way through the 3 blades at once. With me, the blades kept slipping, so I would drill the holes in a piece, then realign the drilled piece on top of the others, pit the next blade through the holes, and repeat.
For a locking pin, I used about five inches of solid copper wire, gauge 20. I bent it into a "U" shape, then threaded each blade onto the wire. I then cut off the excess wire with lineman's pliars.
Once again, I employed the 16oz. Sears Manual Calibration Device with Claw attachment. The curve of the "U" wire is bent flat, and the prongs are bent in opposite directions, in much the same way as a brad for paper.
The star is technically ready, but it is still flawed in regards to weight. It is too light to have much heft or to stick in most surfaces. If you make the star out of a brakeplate, you don't encounter this issue, but since we didn't, we do. I took about four feet of CAT3 cable we had on hand (I could use CAT5, but we use it on networking jobs), removed the casing, and separated it into the component wires. I have wrapped about four feet of Orange around the star. This adds a relatively large amount of weight to the star. I hooked it to the copper wire at the start, and braided it back along itself at the end. Wind it tightly, for this also adds structural stability to the star.
Again, this time with some Green. Orange vaguely contrasts with Green, although Blue would be better, but I had misplaced the Blue and I was too lazy to tear up another four feet of CAT3. The throwing star is finished. With the orange and green, it almost looks like a flower. As it has been said, "Even the smallest flower can strike a deadly blow..." An interesting variation you can do at this point is to securely tie the star to the end of a long strand of CAT3 wire. Make a finger loop in the other end. This weapon is used by swinging the cord in a circle, then stepping towards the target and snapping the wrist, thus achieivng far greater speeds with the star than is usually possible by throwing. This has the advantage of being useful in short-range combat, although it increases the chance of damaging yourself.
What use is a throwing star if it is not thrown? It flies fairly accurate. Here it is embedded in a cardboard box target.
Another box shot.
It goes nicely through sheetrock (drywall) as well. Homeowner's insurance will not be your friend if you test your new toy out too much in the house. It would probably not feel good to get hit with one of these. Since it is made out of mild steel, the points will blunt easily if it is thrown into metal. Use with caution. Do not place throwing star in same pocket as car keys.